The Thailand Ultramarathon is held in the Northern part of Chiang Mai in a place called Pang Ma Ha. The base HQ for the start and the ending of this Trail race is at the Cave Lodge, an eco guest house ran by Mr John Spies. Usually held around the end of the year, November period. This race brings the participants through the very scenic mountainous area of Northern Thailand. The weather is of course cooling and being winter, rain will be lesser as compared to the other months.
2016, supposed to go for this trail race just 3 weeks after the Jakarta Mandiri Marathon. Had a bad fall that hurt my tail bone. Then the news of the death of Thai King came just when I was having the Jakarta Marathon. The race for the 50km had to be postpone as it was still within the 30 days of the mourning period for the king. The 50 KM will now start the race together with the 100km runners on 19 Nov 2016. Just when it got me thinking whether to just give this race a miss, I decided to any how, travel to the north and just enjoy myself !
HAPPY HOLIDAYS.. NO?
Just when I thought it was going to be a happy holidays for me to chillax. Event page for the face book showed that some of the runners are going there just to run the trail anyhow, with no awards and timing but only the event tee will be provided. Temptation drawing. Was so tempted to just stay in safe haven, Chiang Mai, to booze and massage my life away. After some thoughts. I told myself, I should just go and see the trails myself, even though I really suck at trails. Picking up my courage and with almost naked equipment ( did not even bring the emergency blanket and a head lamp). I bought the ticket from Arcade Bus Station in Chiang Mai and straight away made my way to Soppong or Pang Ma Ha after I landed. In fact, this was so unprepared that I didn’t even bring any energy gels!
THE RIDE
The mini bus that drives you from Chiang Mai to Soppong.
The trip to Pang Ma Ha is actually not that long. Compared to the super long bus that I took in China from Cheng Du to Jiu Zhai Gou. That was like 10 hours cramped with the villagers. In total it was about 3-4 hours. Along the way, there is one stop in Pai and a couple of toilet stops. As the route is far North near to the border. It is inevitable that there are to be some army border checks etc. The ride was fast but cramp, if you are travelling alone, it will be good to take the front passenger seat beside the driver. For the more petite people it will not be much of a hassle but for the tall people, the small passenger seats is actually quite torturous for them.
Upon reaching Soppong, you have to walk towards the 7-Eleven Convenience store, there is where the motorcycle taxis are. Most of the transportation there is by scooters and motorcycles, even young teenagers ride on them.
Soppong main road
Almost another 20 minutes, you will reach the Cave Lodge, along the way, the cool air and slight drizzles made me feel close to nature. There was this stretch of road where there were no establishments. Just pure forest and misty air. Passing through a bridge or two, we came to Cave Lodge.
Bus station in Soppong
Cave Lodge – The head quarters
The cave lodge entrance
The lodge is very tranquil and beautiful. It might not be those luxurious five star villas etc, but the nature and rustic is enough to make you enjoy the place. There is a river running in front of the Lodge. Most of the rooms are surrounded by many trees.
Room facilities in Cave lodge is decent and only charges 700B for a double bed room
I stayed in a double bed room and it was fantastic, with a small balcony and seats outside, you can enjoy the nature at your door step. There are no sounds of cars, trains, people talking but just pure nature with birds chirping and rivers gushing. The air is very fresh there too.
The lodge serves Western and Thai fare, although the price is not very expensive, but if you walk out into the village, there are a couple of more food joints serving local fare at local price ( 30Baht for a nice beef noodle soup).
Amenities around town
Around cave lodge and the town there are some decent noodle soup shop
There are a couple of provision stores around and also a small postal office which sells postcards and help to deliver parcels. If you are looking for some specialty diet etc, you will not be able to find any here. Basic necessities are still readily available and within reach.
The Trail Route
Corn fields to start the race
Very clear and obvious signs so that runners will not get lost.
Warning for more dangerous routes
As the TU 50 race has been postponed, the runners are just there for an unofficial trail run. The various check points and signs have already been put up so it was not difficult if you already have the various equipment. Please note that you are to bring along :
- Head lights
- Enough Hydration of up to 2 litres
- Emergency Blanket
Do not underestimate the forest. Although you can be a full fledged well trained trail runners, you never know what each forest have in for you. There were a couple of river crossings, so it will be good if you are able to bring along change of socks etc.
I am not a usual trail runner. But being really unprepared for this race, I was thinking only of doing a distance of about 21km, really a fun run, but fellow countrymen spur me on to try to push it to check point 3. Check point 2 -3 is a good 18 km away, it is rather technical along the way as it is all up hills. and a lot of steep coming downs. The mountain mist and clean forest air is the biggest reward you get. The scenery around is also the best 🙂 This trail is not for the faint hearted. The elevation is rather high and also just when you thought it is all coming to an end, another up slope just flash out in front of you!
CP 2 and CP 3 were actually small villages, there are a few inhabitants in these two checkpoints. In check point 3, the provision store does not sell cold stuff so you will have to be prepared. Being in such a remote place, it is difficult to get refrigeration equipment, not to say availability of ice.
scenery from the trails
mud trail roads are a common scene in the trail
Somewhere in between CP 2 and CP 3 there are many beautiful locations for photography
More greenery and stuff
Be rewarded with nice beautiful landscape scenery.
Overall the markings were very clear and easy to spot, even after a thunderstorm, the various markings are still around with the pink ribbon. This is something that all should be grateful about.
You will be glad to know that the finish is actually a river crossing from the river in front of the Cave Lodge and into the lodge restaurant and lobby area. After a whole night of darkness, this is where you are greeted by good food and warmth and you know you are home.
Insect bites are not uncommon in trails, but the ants and mozzies here can be rather powerful. Do take care with repellent and also some ointment to heal the bites.
After note
I do not know if I will ever make it to a real 100km trail and also the holy grail of trail runners: Marathon Du Mont Blanc. BUT this run made me realise that trail running is so much more fulfilling than road races, it is a whole new level and different kind of satisfaction, of course, the feeling of outfield comes back all the time while I was on the trails. Maybe I am born an army girl afterall!